Month: July 2019

Sunscreen 101

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Sunscreen is a vital skincare product that everyone should apply regardless of weather. As summer is approaching, applying sunscreen is getting more and more important to protect our skin from harmful UV rays. However, choosing the right sunscreen can be tricky, as there are many factors that one should take into consideration to finding the holy-grail sunscreen. Here is a guide to help you choose the sunscreen that will not only protect early skin aging but also decrease the chance of skin cancer. 

Guide to SPF and UV Rays

SPF, or sun protection factor, is a measurement of how long the sunscreen will protect the skin from UV rays. Although people tend to believe that higher SPFs will block significantly higher amount of UV rays, the difference in protection between various SPF is not radical. For example, while SPF 15 can block 93% of UV rays, SPF of 30 can block 97% while SPF of 50 will block 98%. Although SPF is an important factor in choosing a sunscreen, the spectrum of UV coverage is another significant factor to place into consideration. 

UV, or ultraviolet, rays are the primary cause of skin cancer. There are three types of UV rays, UVA, UVB, and UVC but only UVA and UVB rays will damage and cause skin cancer, as UVC rays do not penetrate through the atmosphere. Because UVA and UVB rays will both damage the skin, finding sunscreens containing filters that will block both UVA and UVB rays is absolutely crucial.

Physical vs Chemical Filter

Physical filters protect our skin by reflecting and scattering the UV rays. The only two FDA approved physical filters are: 

  • Zinc Oxide: blocks UVB, UVA1 and UVA2
  • Titanium Dioxide: blocks UVB and UVA2

As shown above, physical filters offer a broad spectrum of protection from the sun and are also better for acne-prone and sensitive skin as the filters do not penetrate through the skin. However, these filters are often the cause of whitecast and difficult application. During summer times, sunscreens containing physical filters require frequent re-application, as the filters rub off easily from sweat and water. 

Chemical filters absorb the UV rays and release them as heat through chemical reaction. Some commonly used, FDA approved filters are:

  • Avobenzone: blocks UVA1
  • Octinoxate: blocks UVB
  • Octisalate: blocks UVB
  • Oxybenzone: blocks UVB and UVA2
  • Octocrylene: blocks UVB and UVA2

These filters are often combined together to cover the various spectrum of the UV rays and to make them more photostable, which means the product will not degrade with exposure to UV ray. Chemical filters have advantages of no whitecast, easier application, and lighter texture. However, they would need to be applied 15-20 minutes before sun exposure. Also, because chemical filters turn UV rays into thermal energy, they can increase the redness on skin. Unfortunately, most chemical filters available in United States tend to penetrate through skin and cause skin sensitivity. New and better filters like Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M and Uvinul T 150 can cover broader spectrum as well as being more stable and less skin sensitizing. However, they are yet to be FDA approved. 

Product Recommendation

Physical Sunscreens

Paula’s Choice CALM Redness Relief SPF 30 – Normal to Oily

  • This sunscreen includes both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as the main active ingredient. It also contains great moisturizing and calming ingredients like green tea, chamomile, aloe vera, glycerin panthenol. Lastly, this sunscreen is fragrance-free. 

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Pure Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer SPF 40

  • This physical sunscreen also contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as active ingredients. In addition to the filters, it contains ingredients like colloidal oatmeal, avocado oil, and allantoin for soothing and calming purpose. While it is paraben-free, it is not fragrance-free. 

Chemical Sunscreens

  • Krave Beauty The Beet Shield
  • This sunscreen contains various chemical filters like Uvinul A Plus, octyl triazone, Tinosorb S and etc. It also contains beetroot extract, vitamin c, resveratrol and EGCG for antioxidants and allantoin for soothing. While this product is fragrance-free, it does contain alcohol for better formulation purpose. 

PURITO Centella Green Level Safe Sun SPF 50 PA ++++

  • This sunscreen uses Uvinul A Plus and octinoxate for chemical filters. Centella asiatica extract and hyaluronic acid provide soothing and moisturizing properties. This sunscreen is also ethanol, PEG, mineral oil, fragrance, and cruelty free as well as being vegan. All the ingredients used have EWG Green level 1-2, making PURITO’s sunscreen a good choice for anyone with sensitive, acne prone skin. 

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Getting Ready for Summer: Top 5 Makeup Setting/Fixing Sprays

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Summer is here!

You know summer’s here when it rains for five days in a row, the temperature rises, the air gets humid, and your makeup smudges and fades not even halfway through the day. Summer is undoubtedly a wonderful season, but for makeup-lovers it can be the most disastrous season of all. Do you want your makeup to stay perfect from the moment you walk out the door to the moment you get back home? Do you want to keep your makeup from fading away during a waterful day at the beach? Then you should brace yourself with the best makeup setting sprays for the hot season that has just begun!

What are makeup setting/fixing sprays?

Makeup setting/fixing sprays are diffused on the face before and/or after putting on makeup to lock the makeup in place for a long time. Makeup fixing sprays especially produce waterproof effects, which makes them handy during summertime.

How do they work?

There are two types of makeup setting sprays: 1) ones that protect the makeup from sweat and feature waterproofness (they are specifically called “fixing” sprays) and 2) ones that only make the makeup appear more dewy and well-blended.

The first type of makeup setting sprays contain polymers, which are long molecules that hold film-forming properties. The polymers are dissolved in a solvent, typically alcohol, which evaporates as soon as you spray the product on the skin, leaving the polymer. These polymers form a film that locks your makeup in place and shields against water.

The second type generally contains more healthy ingredients, more humectant ingredients such as butylene glycol and less alcohol compared to the first type. It does not form a film on the face but it hydrates and nourishes the skin while setting the makeup.

Top 5 Makeup Setting/Fixing Sprays

Vivid has selected 5 of the best makeup setting sprays for this summer–hope you have a splendid summer with these products!

So Natural / ALL DAY TIGHT MAKEUP SETTING FIXER
$22/ 75ml (2.53 fl oz.)

Ranked No.1 by K-Beauty professionals in a blind test on “Get It Beauty,” the most popular beauty TV show in South Korea, it is by far the most popular makeup fixing spray in the country. The lemon extract, tea tree extract and centella asiatica extract altogether moisturizes and nourishes the skin, and a fresh floral scent is added as well. It works great for all skin types. Although it’s a Korean product, don’t worry–you can buy it on their website in the US!

Urban Decay / ALL NIGHTER SETTING SPRAY – Long-Lasting Makeup Setting Spray

$33/ 118 ml (4.0 fl oz.)

At this point everyone should be familiar with the name, for it is one of the best-selling makeup setting sprays in the US. It is famous mostly for its long-lasting power (that’s up to 16 hours!!), but it also carries many benefits. It is for all skin types, free of oil and parabens, vegan, extremely lightweight, but the best of all is the patented Temperature Control Technology, which lowers the temperature of your makeup in order to keep it in place no matter the humidity and weather.

MAC / PREP + PRIME FIX+

$27/ 100 ml (3.4 fl oz.)

While this product does not shield the face with a film, but it is the second type of spray that hydrates and sets the makeup. It contains water loaded with vitamins and minerals and infused with green tea, chamomile and cucumber in order to calm and revitalize the skin. It is dermatologist-tested, ophthalmologist-tested and non-acnegenic, so it is extra safe for use. You can also enjoy this product in 4 different scents–original, rose, lavender and coconut–choose whichever fragrance you love.

COVER FX / High Performance Setting Spray

$31 / 120 mL (4 fl oz.); Mini size: $15 / 30mL (1.0 fl oz.)

This ultra-powerful, weightless, alcohol-free setting spray fixes your makeup for up to 24 hours with its remarkable protection against pollution. It is labeled Clean at Sephora, so there’s no need to worry about the ingredients inside. This fixing spray will leave your skin without making it feel sticky, greasy or dry. It is not recommended for dry skin.

COVER FX / Dewy Finish Setting Spray

$31/ 120 mL (4 fl oz.)

If you wanted to buy the fixing spray introduced above but you have a dry skin type, this is the perfect choice for you. This setting spray works great for all skin types while featuring almost all of the features mentioned for the High Performance Setting Spray above, except the pollution protection part. Instead, this setting spray provides a dewy glow on the face and stays on all day. This product is also labeled Clean at Sephora that guarantees safe ingredients.

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The Emerging Skin Care Ingredients in 2019

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Understanding the skin care ingredients that work best for your own skin type is the key to maintain a healthy skin condition. Here are some of the essential skin care ingredients and how-to guide to choosing the right skin care products based on your skin type.

  • Vitamin F — A type of “fat” that is beneficial to your skin health
    • Vitamin F, which stands for vitamin fat, is a type of linoleic acid. While people are often intimidated by the word “fat”, vitamin fat contains omega-rich structure that actually benefits your skin by strengthening the skin-barrier. In skin care products, vitamin F is usually extracted from rosehip, sunflower, olive and flaxseed oils, all natural and floral extracts. This type of “fat” helps your skin-barrier to effectively heal cracks and roughness and delivers your skin a strong and healthy-looking complexion. 
  • Recommended skin care product that contains vitamin F:
Pai Skincare Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil

With its pleasant rosy smell and elegant design, this product is the ideal choice for those who have dry and sensitive skin. For best results, apply 2-3 drops to the palm of your hand and use fingertips to gently massage into clean, slightly damp skin on face or body nightly.

  • Niacinamide — A multi-functional ingredient that settles most of your skin problems
    • Niacinamide is a common ingredient that can be found in skin care products. As most people are familiar with its effectiveness in curing acne and break-outs, it has much more functions that benefit your skin condition. For instance, niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties make it an attractive treatment for skin conditions marked by inflammation like rosacea by reducing excessive oil production. It is also proved by several studies that niacinamide is able to eliminate pigmentation issues, fine lines, and wrinkles. Besides that, niacinamide is also known to brighten and hydrate your skin, as well as enhance collagen production.
  • Recommended skin care product that contains niacinamide:
Paula’s Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster

If you are bothered by huge pores, acne, and dullness skin issues, this niacinamide booster is the right choice for you. It is compatible with all skin types. However, if you have oily-skin, you will find it more effective in smoothing skin and minimizing pores.

  • Mandelic Acid — A much-hyped new beast of the exfoliating-acid
    • Mandelic acid is known to be derived from bitter almond extract. As a type of skin-friendly acid, it helps to remove dead skin cells to leave the epidermis renewed. Unlike other types of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic acid, mandelic acid stands out due to its larger molecule size. That is, it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as other acids, making it ideal for sensitive skin types. However, any type of acid is irritative to skin to some extent. Therefore, products that contain mandelic acid are recommended to use one or two times per week, depending on your skin type and other products you are using.
  • Recommended skin care product that contains mandelic acid:
The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10%

With the carefully-controlled amount of mandelic acid, this product peels the dead skin cell immediately after use without overly irritating your skin. Therefore, it is safe enough for sensitive skin and all other skin type to use. But please avoid using it on wounds.

  • Squalane — An ultimate hydrating weapon for dry and sensitive skin
    • Squalane is a hydrogenated version of squalene, a compound produced naturally by our sebaceous glands. In contrast to squalene, squalane is not subject to auto-oxidation. Accompanied by its low production cost, squalane has become a desirable ingredient in the cosmetics industry, and it can be usually found in emollient and moisturizer. Squalane is most loved by dry and sensitive skin because it is lightweight and non-greasy in texture but deeply hydrating. In recent years, due to environmental concerns, squalane is not encouraged to be sourced from the livers of sharks. Instead, factories extract squalane from olives or sugarcane, which guarantees the quality of squalane while protecting the ecological environment.
  • Recommended skin care product that contains squalane:
HABA Squalane Pure Roots Oil

Colorless, odorless, weightless, HABA squalane oil is proved to be one of the purest skin care products for moisturizing. Applying a few drops before using cream can maximize its moisturizing effect.

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